By Michael J. Solender
From Silk Road relics to otherworldly landscapes, a firsthand journey through one of China’s most storied—and surprising—provinces.
A light breeze sweeps past as I take in the view of hundreds of wind-eroded rock formations scattered across the tawny desert. It’s just before noon, and I stand in northwest China’s Yardang National Park, a UNESCO Global Geopark about two hours north of Dunhuang City.
In the southwestern corner of the Gobi Desert, a vast sea of mysterious Yardangs—sharp ridges of compressed sand and bedrock—stretches for miles. These craggy stone soldiers, clustered in all directions, loom stories high and spread several meters wide. Sculpted by sandstorms and erosion over centuries, they dominate the stark, empty landscape named Yadan Devil City. These formations are the only inhabitants, their name inspired by the eerie, high-pitched howls as the wind rushes past their jagged flanks. Nearby, Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony drifts gently from speakers cleverly hidden among the rocks near the viewing area where our minibus waits. Rather than clash, the music complements the extraordinary view—another thoughtful detail of the infrastructure we’ve encountered at so many of China’s cultural and natural attractions during the past two weeks.
I’m traveling with a small group of American media, hosted by the China National Tourist Office. We’re nearing the end of a journey that’s taken us along the ancient Silk Road, onto the Tibetan Plateau, and through the heart of Gansu Province.
Gansu, often called the cradle of Chinese civilization, is rich in natural beauty, folk traditions, and cultural legacy. Its landscape reflects the enduring influence of the Silk Road, the Yellow River, and the Great Wall. At the intersection of the Loess, Inner Mongolia, and Qinghai-Tibet Plateaus, Gansu spans the Yellow, Yangtze, and Inland River valleys. The region is home to over 26 million people and its capital, Lanzhou, sits near the geographical center of continental China.
Steeped in Silk Road history, Gansu remains a popular destination for domestic travelers and is just beginning to emerge on the radar of American soft-adventure tourists. Our hosts note the province ranks second in China for UNESCO World Heritage sites and fifth in tourism resources nationwide.
I’m here to experience firsthand the many-sided attractions of this lesser-explored region. Here’s what I’ve discovered:
Beijing: China’s Gateway
We begin with three full days in Beijing. It’s a perfect introduction for a first-time visitor like me. After a 15-hour flight from Los Angeles on Air China, we arrive at the Crowne Plaza Beijing Chaoyang U-Town, a centrally located and comfortable hotel.
I’m struck by just how green and tree-lined Beijing is—a much softer impression than I expect from a metropolis of over 22 million. There’s a surprising harmony between sleek modern skyscrapers and centuries-old buildings. Feng shui principles of balance are evident in the flowing design for example of Galaxy SOHO, a retail and entertainment complex designed by Zaha Hadid we pass daily.
Navigating Beijing’s broad avenues reveals an organization behind the chaos. Dedicated lanes for scooters, mopeds, and bicycles create a cityscape where cars don’t completely dominate.
Beijing dazzles with contrasts. One day, I wander the iconic Forbidden City, the imperial palace of the Ming and Qing dynasties; the next, I’m immersed in SoReal, a $1.4 billion Sci-Fi Metaverse Park built from a repurposed steel mill, offering futuristic virtual reality experiences.
A rickshaw ride through a traditional hutong—a neighborhood of narrow alleys and courtyard homes now filled with hip restaurants and boutiques—gives a glimpse into Beijing’s ever-evolving identity.
The city’s allure comes from its blend of ancient heritage, culinary invention, and futuristic ambition that yield wide, lasting appeal.
A highlight is our day trip to Mutianyu, one of the longest continuous sections of the Great Wall, built in the 14th century. Inspired by Chairman Mao’s famous phrase, “He who has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true hero,” we join many visitors in making the brisk ascent. Mutianyu, just two hours from Beijing, is easily reached by cable car, and boasts amenities like snacks, restrooms, and even a toboggan run. Mist and fog limit the view today, but that doesn’t dampen my sense of awe, or the enthusiasm for selfies with new friends.
Lanzhou: Gansu’s Golden City on the Silk Road
Two hours after an early flight from Beijing, our group lands in Lanzhou. Our local guide, Peter Huang, explains that Lanzhou, Gansu’s capital, is home to about 3.5 million people and was an important major city on a 1,600km stretch of the ancient Silk Road.
“Gansu’s Hexi Corridor—a 1,200km strip squeezed between mountains and desert—channeled merchants, armies, and ideas through oasis towns like Dunhuang and Zhangye,” Huang says. “It became a strategic link for dynasties seeking control of East-West trade.”
Known as the Golden City, Lanzhou’s historic name “Jincheng” refers to local gold discoveries during the city’s ancient development.
As we enter, we cross the Yellow River, which flows directly through downtown—Lanzhou is the only provincial capital in China with such a confluence. The Yellow River Mother Sculpture and adjacent Waterwheel Garden, both popular with locals and tourists, symbolize the river’s nourishing role in the region.
On a sunny Saturday, families picnic, sunbathe, and stroll the riverside boardwalk at Binhe Park. We join the throngs crossing Zhongshan Iron Bridge. Built in 1909 as the Yellow River’s first permanent bridge, it’s now a lively pedestrian thoroughfare, flanked by food and drink stalls. A teahouse on the north bank offers a refreshing eight-treasure tea as our reward for crossing.
That evening, Lanzhou’s Zhengning Road Night Market brims with vibrant street food and people-watching—teens in lively groups, vendors grilling chicken skewers and hawking pastries. I resist the treats, content just to observe the lively scene.
Heading South: Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture
Driving south from Lanzhou into Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, we leave the cityscape behind for sunlit grasslands—sweeping vistas framed by yak, horses, sheep, and the Qilian Mountains.
Our destination is Labrang Monastery in Xiahe, the largest and most significant Tibetan Buddhist monastery outside Tibet. Once home to more than 3,000 monks, about 1,500 reside here now. One of six great monasteries of the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect, Labrang welcomes guests with guided tours and public access to many buildings, offering rare insights into monastic life and Buddhist teachings.
The monastery’s colorful temples, golden rooftops, and mountain backdrop are mesmerizing. The 3km ring of prayer wheels at the entrance—the world’s longest—invites meditative walks. Our tour includes the Medical College, Avalokitesvara Temple, Golden Temple, Great Chanting Hall, and a museum of yak butter sculptures. Each space reveals layers of art and symbolism.
We visit the Langmusi Monastery the following day and find a more intimate and less busy site, rich with atmosphere and serenity.
A long drive takes us to Zhagana in Diebu County. Huang reminds us to charge our cameras; the Gannan scenic area is often called “China’s last Garden of Eden,” famed for mountain vistas, Tibetan villages, and cloud-kissed trails.
I’m again impressed by the thoughtful infrastructure: Wooden walkways, shaded viewing platforms, shuttle buses to key spots, and a welcoming visitor center with water, snacks, and information.
Most of our morning is spent hiking a scenic loop, sharing the trails with domestic tourists dressed in colorful Tibetan garb, posing for photos. Lunch at a local Tibetan restaurant makes the experience complete.
Silk Road Oases: Zhangye and Dunhuang
Returning to Lanzhou, we rejoin the Silk Road for our trip’s final leg. A high-speed train whisks us 2.5 hours northwest to Zhangye, at the heart of the Hexi Corridor. Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty founded Zhangye Prefecture in 121 BC to support China’s westward expansion; the city has long been a crossroads of the Silk Road.
The Zhangye Danxia Landform Geological Park—an official UNESCO World Heritage site and Geopark—is a highlight I’ve eagerly anticipated. The vibrant “Rainbow Mountains,” made of Cretaceous silty mudstone and colored by iron, zinc, and other minerals, reveal the area’s dramatic geological history. We spend hours exploring the park by bus and on foot, marveling at breathtaking viewpoints.
Next stop: Dunhuang, at the edge of the Gobi Desert. Our top priority is the fabled Mogao Grottoes. A private English-speaking tour through eight caves reveals over 1,600 years of history: 492 of the 735 grottoes house 2,400 statues and intricate frescoes—masterworks of early Buddhist art—earning Mogao a spot on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1987. The 35 meter Buddha carved into the soft rock here greets the continuous flow of visitors from his own “house,” some 120 ft. high.
An adjacent museum deepens our understanding with replicas of the caves’ most ornate interiors.
Dunhuang’s cultural identity centers on the grottoes. An immersive theater and daily performance, “Music and Dance of Dunhuang,” bring the legacy to life with Broadway-caliber spectacle.
On our final day, we spend two hours outside Dunhuang, wrapping up with Yardang National Park and a trip to Yumen Pass, where Han Dynasty ruins and a 4th-century earthen segment of the ancient wall evoke the Silk Road’s enduring legacy.
It’s been an enervating yet satisfying journey. To be among the early westerners visiting the sights and treasures of Gansu as it opens to foreign tourism, leaves me sated and looking to return soon.
** Lead photo caption: The pastureland at the foot of Qilian Mountains by Chen Jiabo. Provided by the Department of Culture and Tourism of Gansu Province.
** Michael J. Solender lives in and writes from his adopted hometown of Charlotte, N.C. Read more from him here.
MORE FEATURED STORIES
Get an inside vue on the latest in luxury. You heard it here first.
