Wrapped in lush tropical beauty, guests here soak up Costa Rica’s good life.
Just 40 minutes after leaving the airport in Liberia, Costa Rica, our private 4×4 transfer rounds a blind corner onto the approach to Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort. My wife Harriet and I are here for an eco-getaway that promises immersive nature adventures with a bit of luxe pampering on the side.
As we ease into the low-key porte cochère fronting the open-air lobby, we catch our first glimpse of the natural wonders awaiting us. Glimmering Culebra Bay takes our breath away. Its sunlit, mirrored surface is dotted with sailboats performing a water ballet against the distant ridgeline of the coastal highlands, and beyond that, the open Pacific.
Derik, one of the resort’s butlers, extends the first of two official welcomes, offering us chilled coconut water straight from the freshly shaved fruit. “Pura vida,” he says. “Welcome home.”
Beyond its literal translation of “pure life,” pura vida is the Costa Rican philosophy of appreciating nature, simplicity, a slower pace and everyday gratitude. We soon learn it’s no cliché but a genuine, mindful approach to contentment.
Moments later, as we ride a golf cart to our suite, the second welcome comes from an ever-present but unseen local. A deep, throaty growl rises from just beyond the path. Derik tells us it’s a howler monkey, the alpha male, letting everyone within earshot know whose turf we’re on.
Later, we spot howlers swinging through the trees nearby, along with their cousins, the white-faced capuchins. They’re mischievous (we’ve been told to hold our bags tight), but they’re a constant curiosity and endlessly fun to watch.
Thoughtful Nature-Fused Design
Touring the grounds, we’re struck by how thoughtfully the architecture blends into the natural surroundings across this 28-acre oceanfront property.
The resort is a showcase for biophilic design, the idea that buildings feel better when they bring nature, natural materials and natural forms inside. Costa Rican architect Ronald Zürcher took his cues straight from the peninsula’s native flora and fauna, shaping buildings to echo cocoons and seashells. Think armadillo backs and rooflines curved like conch shells. Once you notice it, you see it everywhere, in rooms that feel more grown than built.
The landscaping carries the same philosophy. Ornamental plantings blend into native dry forest, blurring any clear boundary between the manicured resort and the wild peninsula beyond.
Rather than leveling the land, the resort follows the natural contours of the hillside. Open-air pathways wind between guest rooms and gathering spaces tucked among the trees, with Culebra Bay glinting below. Walking from our suite to breakfast feels less like crossing a hotel and more like a stroll through the forest, which is exactly the point.
Hibiscus spills over the walking paths, its large trumpet-shaped blooms in red, yellow and pink drawing hummingbirds and butterflies. Bougainvillea, firebush, croton and lobster claw flowers burst in riots of red, orange and gold against the earth-toned, bamboo-clad residences and restaurants.
Suite Life
We’ve snagged an Andaz corner suite overlooking both the bay and the forest, and the biophilic design doesn’t stop at the front door. At 1,713 square feet, our suite has floor-to-ceiling windows, high curved bamboo ceilings, and driftwood and textile pieces by local artisans throughout.
Off the large master bedroom, an oversized balcony with loungers offers an unobstructed view of the bay. The master bath has river-stone floors, dual rain showerheads, a soaking tub and his-and-hers vanities for those (like us) who like to spread out.
I love the Marshall Bluetooth speaker in the living room. It looks like an old-fashioned 1950s radio but packs high-tech components and knockout sound for my own custom playlist. There’s loads of space, with a large dining table and a snack bar and fridge stocked with complimentary soft drinks and treats.
Sun hats and flip-flops that come with the suite are a nice touch and make great souvenirs.
Dining
From breakfast to beachside dinners, the variety here keeps us coming back hungry. Every venue showcases the peninsula’s freshest bounty, and all are covered, open-air spaces that keep the pura vida flowing.
Breakfast at Gaio is a generous spread. There’s papaya, mango, guava, pineapple and more, plus house-made yogurts, pastries, granola and cheeses. Hot options include gallo pinto, the rice-and-bean dish that’s Costa Rica’s national breakfast, along with made-to-order eggs, waffles, Creole sausage and fresh tortillas. Don’t miss the ginger-lemongrass drink, spicy, sweet and a real eye-opener.
Costa Rican coffee is the star, of course. A two-hour barista class at Coffee & Vinyls proves that grind, process and technique make all the difference. We’re instant converts to the traditional chorreador, a simple wooden stand holding a cloth filter, which yields a smooth, balanced pour-over. It’s perfect with a splash of hot milk.
Dinner takes an Asian turn at side-by-side Ostra and Perla. Ostra serves Thai-inspired seafood, beef and noodle dishes, while Perla turns out sushi, sashimi and hand rolls that burst with flavor. The people-watching is half the fun, with multigenerational families, couples and friends all soaking up the view.
At Chao Pescao, the menu is literally a map of the Latin world. Small plates travel from Mexico and the Caribbean to Brazil, Argentina and of course, Costa Rica, best paired with local beers and a leisurely pace. Harriet’s birthday dinner here turns extra sweet when servers arrive with tres leches and chocolate mousse cakes and a rousing “Feliz Cumpleaños.”
A 10-minute boat ride or drive through a protected mangrove preserve brings us to Casa de Playa, the resort’s beach club on Playa Nacascolo, with its 25-meter pool, cabanas and live DJs. Its beachfront restaurant, Meso, serves what the resort calls “Meso-terranean” cuisine, blending Greek, Mediterranean and Latin American flavors. It’s a standout: a meze platter with tomato pesto and chickpea spread, followed by fresh corvina and octopus that absolutely sparkle.
Chill or Thrill
For our five-day stay, we aim to strike a balance between chill and thrill. Mission accomplished.
Onda Spa sets the tone. Our couples massage is so glorious that we return the next day for the hydrotherapy circuit, cycling between a hot pool, cold plunge and dry sauna. Yoga, sound healing and a full indoor gym are also on offer, but the beach keeps calling.
Snorkel gear, paddleboards and kayaks are available at Casa de Playa and at the resort’s own Sombrero Oscuro Beach. Snorkeling just off the main beach turns up colorful fish in the warm, calm water.
A quick shuttle ride away, Papagayo Park in the Manzanillo Bay neighborhood is a social hub for families, with pickleball, tennis, watersports and more. We tour the grounds, ice cream cones in hand.
Back at the resort, several pools, including kid-friendly and adults-only options, offer cabanas, shade and poolside menu service. We’re never far from our suite, yet the views and the quiet make us feel a world away.
The true highlight of our visit is a guided tour of the Peninsula Preserve, 250 acres of undeveloped, protected forest and mangroves just a 20-minute ride from the resort. Tours run both day and evening. Ours is a small group of four, led by a local expert and amateur botanist on a three-hour walk through the peninsula’s remarkable ecosystem.
Our guide has a story for nearly everything we encounter, from iguanas, snakes and crocodiles to coatis and land crabs. At one giant hollowed-out tree, he beckons me closer. A sharp whiff of ammonia hits me as he beams his flashlight up into the trunk. A burst of squeaking reveals hundreds of bats dangling just above my head. I’m not ready for that, but it’s very cool.
Every creature plays its part, and we’re fascinated by the harmony and balance on display, pura vida in its wildest form.
After five days at Andaz Peninsula Papagayo, we realize we’ve barely scratched the surface. That’s just fine. With the full pura vida treatment under our belts, we already know we’ll be back.
For more information: hyatt.com/andaz/en-US/liraz-andaz-peninsula-papagayo-resort-costa-rica.
*Photos: Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort and Michael J. Solender
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