At a time when takeout is the new standard and more restaurants prioritize speed over quality, is there still space for dining in to be not only a luxury but an experience? And are the days of quality dishes truly over?
Marcel is a Michelin-Star French-American-themed steakhouse in Midtown Atlanta. And although it seeks to offer a classic experience reminiscent of the ‘old days of dining,’ it’s relatively new on the scene.
A bit of history: Marcel was opened in 2015 by Atlanta-based chef Ford Fry. The restaurant is named after the famous French boxer Marcel Cerdan. The steakhouse seeks to bring guests back to a time when dining in was a luxury experience—a return to a time when people sat down, conversed, laughed, and enjoyed good food.
Last weekend, I had the pleasure of dining at Marcel to see what the buzz is all about and whether it really provides the classic experience it seeks to provide.
Marcel is located in the Westside Provisions District in Midtown. I initially had a hard time locating the door to the restaurant in the plaza, but when I finally found it and stepped inside, all of the stress and white noise of the city melted away. I was hit with a whiff of fresh candles, classical French music, and vintage European decor, even in the waiting area. The host kindly greeted me and once I mentioned my reservation, walked me to my seat.
Walking through the restaurant, I couldn’t peel my eyes off any of my surroundings. In every corner, there seemed to be something to look at. It was beautiful. Gold-framed antique paintings, various velvet blends of red, black, and copper, and ambient lighting in chandeliers, just dark enough to ease your mind but just light enough for you to see what’s going on around you. A variety of seating options for all kinds of dining experiences – from secluded face-to-face seating for an intimate and romantic date night to singular bar-top seating for a night of peace and drinks to wide circular booths for a friends’ night out filled with stories and laughter. It was conveyed clearly just through the interior that the steakhouse aimed to prioritize convenient and optimal seating as opposed to quantitative, get-as-many-people-in-and-out-as-you-can chairs and booths.
I was sat in a more intimate section and was greeted warmly by name by my server. It took me a minute to realize that my name must have been on the reservation, and being addressed personally throughout my experience added a lovely touch.
A few minutes later, I was greeted by a different server who welcomed me and gave me a brief rundown of Marcel, its history, and its reputation. He offered me suggestions on the menu and broke down items I was curious about but entirely unfamiliar with.
The non-alcoholic drink options felt limited. Wines are to expected for a steakhouse, I noticed about three-quarters of the drink menu dedicated wines and cocktails, with only about a quarter for other beverages. What did catch my eye, though, was the Midnight in Paris. My server was happy to suggest it and even offered to switch the ginger beer for Sprite when I mentioned that I wasn’t the biggest fan of ginger. I loved it, and the temptation for another was strong. I absolutely would’ve gone for it if I wasn’t concerned about leaving room for dinner.
(On the same note as drinks, my water glass was never past halfway empty. I started to think that my servers had a sensor on the glass to sense when it was running low!)
This may sound like an exaggeration, but the complementary focaccia and whipped ricotta were some of the best bread and butter I’ve ever had, and that’s the truth. I honestly nibbled on it because I was unsure if seconds were complimentary as well, and it wasn’t until a table next to me asked for more when I was getting ready to leave that I wanted to slap myself on the head. I could’ve sat and eaten those all night and still would’ve left with the biggest smile on my face!
I’ve never been the biggest fan of oysters, so I was hesitant to order the Oysters Marcel, but I’m glad I did. The presentation was gorgeous, and my plate was piping hot and fresh. The oysters were beyond savory, topped with breadcrumbs, butter, and herbs. You could taste that they were still fresh.
The veal parm was cooked perfectly. Another presumable exaggeration, I know. But we’re not here to butter anyone up. It was that good. The veal was cooked to perfection and my plate was covered in cheese. This is a plus for me, considering I’m a cheese lover through and through. If you prefer to go light on the dairy or don’t want a lot of cheese in your meal, I would still say to go for it – just specify a light cheese topping as it comes with a lot.
As I was getting ready to leave, my server tapped my table and told me to hold on for just a few minutes— that the chefs were preparing a surprise for me. He came back briefly to place down a matchbox and what appeared to be a bottle of oil.
I had no idea whether to be excited or terrified – maybe a bit of both.
The young man proved me right when he placed a plate of Baked Alaska in front of me, lit the match, made a large flame in a small silver dish with the oil, and rolled the flames down onto the Baked Alaska. It was one of the most captivating presentations I think I’ve ever seen with a dish, and I couldn’t help but let out the biggest smile and gasp in awe.
Marcel’s Baked Alaska consists of a chocolate coffee crust, vanilla ice cream in the center, and coffee Italian meringue coated on top. In simpler terms, it tasted like a giant coffee-flavored ice cream s’more. Although the chocolate coffee crust was a bit strong for me, it was delicious. This thoughtful surprise from the team and my server was delightful.
Overall, Marcel gives guests exactly what it seeks to reunite dining culture with: a personable and luxurious experience. While it is on the higher price point, the exceptional quality of the ‘knockout’ dishes, attentive service, and classic ambiance make it well worth the investment for a memorable night out, no matter the occasion.
I’ve never been one to see myself making an investment for an expensive dinner, but Marcel makes a lasting impression that you want to share with others. And that’s precisely what the classic dining experience is all about, right?
Visit Marcel at 1170 Howell Mill Rd, Atlanta, GA 30318
Follow Marcel on Instagram
Like this article about Marcel Atlanta? Check out our articles on Pata Negra: Atlanta’s Top Mezcaleria and the The Top Steakhouses in Atlanta, Georgia
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